The last snowflake has melted, the days are longer, and your snowblower is likely tucked away in the garage, waiting patiently for winter’s return. But before you forget all about it until the first frost, a critical question arises: is it bad to leave gas in your snowblower over the summer? The short answer is, yes, it can be quite detrimental, leading to a host of problems that could cost you time, money, and frustration when the snow starts to fly again. Leaving gasoline stagnant in your snowblower’s fuel tank for extended periods, especially during the hot summer months, is a recipe for trouble. This article delves deep into why this seemingly innocuous act can turn your reliable snow-clearing machine into a non-starter when you need it most. We’ll explore the chemical breakdown of gasoline, the damaging effects of ethanol, the creation of gum and varnish, and the best practices for proper summer storage to ensure your snowblower is ready for action when winter returns.
The Science Behind the Problem: Why Stale Gas is a Snowblower’s Nemesis
Gasoline, while essential for powering your snowblower, is a volatile and complex mixture of hydrocarbons. It’s not designed to sit idle for months on end. Several factors contribute to its degradation, primarily involving oxidation and contamination.
Oxidation: The Slow Decay of Gasoline
When gasoline is exposed to oxygen in the air, a process called oxidation begins. This is a natural chemical reaction that breaks down the various components of the fuel. Over time, this breakdown can lead to the formation of undesirable byproducts. Think of it like an apple turning brown after you cut it; the same principle applies, albeit on a molecular level, to gasoline. This process is accelerated by heat, making summer storage particularly problematic. The higher temperatures found in most garages and sheds during the summer months will significantly speed up the oxidative decay of the fuel.
Ethanol: The Silent Saboteur
Most gasoline sold today contains ethanol, a biofuel additive often blended at percentages like E10 (10% ethanol). While ethanol offers some environmental benefits and can boost octane, it’s a notorious troublemaker when it comes to small engines like those found in snowblowers. Ethanol is hygroscopic, meaning it attracts and absorbs water from the atmosphere. This absorbed water can then separate from the gasoline, creating a corrosive mixture that settles at the bottom of the fuel tank. This phase separation is particularly damaging. The water-ethanol mixture can corrode metal fuel lines, carburetor components, and even the fuel tank itself. Furthermore, ethanol can degrade rubber and plastic components within the fuel system, leading to leaks and further damage. When ethanol-laced gasoline sits, the ethanol can also oxidize and break down into acidic compounds, which are even more corrosive.
Gum and Varnish Formation: The Clogs of Doom
As gasoline oxidizes and its lighter, more volatile components evaporate, the heavier, less volatile hydrocarbons are left behind. These heavier compounds can polymerize, forming sticky, gummy residues. This process is exacerbated by heat and prolonged storage. Over the summer, these residues can accumulate, hardening into a varnish-like substance that can clog the carburetor’s tiny fuel passages. The carburetor is the heart of your engine’s fuel delivery system, and any blockage here will prevent the engine from starting or running properly. This is one of the most common and frustrating issues encountered when using a snowblower that has been stored with old gas.
The Cascading Consequences: What Happens When You Don’t Prepare Your Snowblower for Summer
Leaving gas in your snowblower over the summer doesn’t just result in a slight inconvenience; it can lead to a chain reaction of problems that require professional attention and significant repair costs.
The Dreaded “Won’t Start” Scenario
This is the most immediate and frustrating consequence. When you pull the starter cord or turn the key next winter, expecting your snowblower to roar to life, you’re met with silence or a sputtering, coughing engine. This is often due to the gummed-up carburetor preventing fuel from reaching the combustion chamber. Even if it does start, it’s likely to run poorly, with uneven power, stalling, and backfiring.
Corrosion and Contamination of the Fuel System
As mentioned, the water and acidic compounds formed from ethanol degradation can wreak havoc on your snowblower’s metal components. Fuel lines can become brittle and crack, leading to fuel leaks, which are a fire hazard. The fuel tank itself can start to rust internally, introducing rust particles into the fuel system. Carburetor jets, designed to be incredibly precise, can become enlarged or misshapen by corrosion, throwing off the fuel-air mixture and causing performance issues.
Damage to Engine Seals and Gaskets
Ethanol can also attack and degrade rubber and plastic seals and gaskets within the fuel system and engine. This can lead to fuel leaks, oil leaks, and vacuum leaks, all of which will compromise the engine’s ability to run efficiently and safely. Replacing these seals can be a tedious and sometimes costly repair.
Reduced Fuel Efficiency and Performance
Even if your snowblower manages to start with stale fuel, its performance will undoubtedly suffer. The engine will run rougher, lack power, and be less fuel-efficient. This means you’ll be working harder and using more fuel to clear your driveway, defeating the purpose of having a powerful snowblower in the first place.
The Solution: Proper Summer Storage for Your Snowblower
Fortunately, preventing these issues is straightforward and can be done in a few simple steps. The key is to address the fuel issue before you put your snowblower away for the summer.
Option 1: Run the Engine Dry (The Recommended Method)
This is the most universally recommended and effective method for preparing your snowblower for summer storage. It ensures that no old fuel remains in the carburetor or fuel lines to degrade.
- Add Fresh Fuel Stabilizer: Purchase a high-quality fuel stabilizer from an auto parts store or a reputable dealer. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the correct dosage. Pour the stabilizer into the fuel tank with a small amount of fresh gasoline. This will help protect the fuel from oxidation and prevent the formation of gum and varnish in the fuel you’ll be using for the run-down.
- Run the Engine: Start the snowblower and let it run for 5-10 minutes. This allows the stabilized fuel to circulate throughout the entire fuel system, including the carburetor and fuel lines.
- Shut Off the Engine and Drain the Tank: Once the engine has run for the specified time, shut it off. Then, locate the fuel drain plug on the carburetor (consult your owner’s manual if you’re unsure). Place a suitable container (like an approved fuel can) underneath the drain plug and carefully remove it. Allow all the fuel to drain out.
- Restart and Run Until Stalled: After draining the bulk of the fuel, replace the drain plug. Then, attempt to start the engine again. Since there’s no fuel left, the engine will run for a few moments and then stall. This final sputtering action will help ensure that virtually all fuel is expelled from the carburetor and fuel lines, leaving them clean and dry.
This method is highly effective because it removes the potential for fuel degradation within the engine’s critical components.
Option 2: Completely Drain the Fuel Tank and Use a Carburetor Cleaner/Fogging Oil
If you prefer not to run the engine dry, or if you want an extra layer of protection, you can drain the fuel tank completely and then use a carburetor cleaner or fogging oil.
- Drain the Fuel Tank: Follow the steps above to drain the fuel tank as completely as possible.
- Spray Carburetor Cleaner: With the fuel tank empty, start the engine and let it run for a minute or two until it stalls. Then, with the engine off, spray a carburetor cleaner (specifically designed for small engines) into the carburetor’s air intake. This will help clean out any remaining fuel residue and varnish. Again, consult your owner’s manual for the precise location of the air intake.
- Use Fogging Oil (Optional but Recommended): For maximum protection against internal rust and corrosion, especially in humid climates, consider using a fogging oil. After draining the fuel and running the engine, spray a liberal amount of fogging oil into the carburetor’s air intake while slowly pulling the starter rope. This will coat the internal engine components with a protective layer.
Option 3: Use a Fuel Stabilizer and Fill the Tank (Less Ideal, but Better Than Nothing)**
While not as ideal as running the engine dry, if you absolutely cannot drain the fuel, adding a fuel stabilizer and filling the tank can offer some protection.
1. **Add Fuel Stabilizer:** Add the recommended amount of fuel stabilizer to a full tank of fresh gasoline.
2. **Fill the Tank:** Top off the fuel tank with fresh gasoline. Filling the tank helps to minimize the amount of air in the tank, which reduces the rate of oxidation.
3. **Run Briefly:** Run the engine for a few minutes to ensure the stabilized fuel circulates through the system.
This method still leaves some fuel in the carburetor, which can still degrade, but the stabilizer will slow down the process significantly.
Beyond the Fuel: Additional Summer Storage Tips
Proper fuel management is crucial, but a few other steps will ensure your snowblower is in top condition come winter.
Clean Your Snowblower Thoroughly
Before storing, give your snowblower a good cleaning. Remove any caked-on snow, ice, mud, or debris from the auger, chute, and housing. This prevents rust and corrosion. A hose and a stiff brush will do the trick. Ensure the machine is completely dry before storing it.
Lubricate Moving Parts
Apply a light coat of oil or grease to any pivot points, cables, and the auger shaft. This will prevent rust and ensure smooth operation when you need it next.
Check and Tighten Fasteners
Go over your snowblower and ensure all nuts and bolts are tight. Vibrations from use can loosen them over time, leading to potential problems.
Store in a Dry, Protected Location
Find a dry, well-ventilated place to store your snowblower, such as a garage, shed, or under a tarp. Avoid damp basements or areas prone to excessive moisture. Protecting it from the elements is paramount.
Consider a Snowblower Cover
A durable snowblower cover will protect it from dust, dirt, and accidental scratches.
The Bottom Line: Invest a Little Time Now to Save Big Later
Leaving gasoline in your snowblower over the summer is a gamble that rarely pays off. The potential for costly repairs, frustrating non-starts, and reduced equipment lifespan far outweighs the minimal effort required to prepare your machine for off-season storage. By taking the time to properly manage the fuel system, you’re not just preserving your snowblower; you’re investing in peace of mind and ensuring you’ll have a reliable tool when winter’s fury descends. So, before you stow away your snowblower, make sure its fuel system is clean, dry, and ready to go for the next snowfall. Your future self will thank you.
What happens to gasoline left in a snowblower over the summer?
Gasoline is a volatile substance that degrades over time, especially when exposed to heat and air. During the summer months, the elevated temperatures accelerate this process. As gasoline breaks down, it forms gummy deposits and varnish-like residues. These contaminants can clog the fuel lines, carburetor jets, and other delicate components of your snowblower’s engine.
This degradation not only makes it difficult to start your snowblower the following winter but can also lead to significant performance issues and costly repairs. The gum and varnish can restrict fuel flow, causing the engine to run poorly, stall, or fail to start altogether. Addressing these clogs often requires professional cleaning or replacement of carburetor parts.
Why is storing gasoline in a snowblower bad for the engine?
The primary reason storing untreated gasoline in a snowblower is detrimental to the engine is the formation of fuel deposits. These deposits, as mentioned, obstruct the precise fuel delivery system. The carburetor, in particular, has very small passages that are easily blocked by even minute amounts of residue. This blockage prevents the engine from receiving the correct air-fuel mixture necessary for combustion.
Beyond physical blockage, stale gasoline can also lead to internal engine damage. Over time, the combustion of degraded fuel can leave carbon deposits on piston rings and cylinder walls, reducing compression and efficiency. In severe cases, this can accelerate wear and tear on critical engine components, shortening the lifespan of your snowblower.
How does heat affect gasoline left in a snowblower?
Heat is a major catalyst for gasoline degradation. During the summer, ambient temperatures combined with heat generated by the engine (even when not running) can significantly speed up the chemical breakdown of fuel. This breakdown process leads to oxidation, where oxygen molecules react with the fuel’s components, creating those harmful varnish and gum residues.
This accelerated breakdown means that a tank of gas that might sit for a few months can become problematic. The higher the temperature and the longer the storage period, the more pronounced the degradation will be. This is why storing a snowblower with a full tank of untreated gas during the hottest months is particularly risky for its engine’s internal components.
What are the symptoms of a snowblower engine damaged by old gasoline?
The most common symptom is difficulty starting the snowblower when you need it for the first time after the summer storage. You might find that the engine cranks but refuses to catch, or it starts for a moment and then immediately dies. If it does start, you’ll likely notice rough idling, sputtering, and a significant loss of power.
Other symptoms can include the engine stalling under load, unusual noises during operation, or even excessive smoke from the exhaust. In more severe cases, the engine might simply refuse to run at all, even with fresh fuel, indicating that the fuel system has become irreparably clogged or damaged by the stale gasoline’s corrosive effects.
What is the recommended method for preparing a snowblower for summer storage?
The most effective method is to properly prepare the fuel system before storing your snowblower. This involves either draining the fuel tank completely or, preferably, treating the existing fuel with a fuel stabilizer. If you choose to drain, ensure the tank is empty and run the engine for a few minutes to burn off any remaining fuel in the carburetor and fuel lines.
If using a fuel stabilizer, add the recommended amount to a nearly full tank of fresh gasoline. Then, run the engine for 5-10 minutes to ensure the stabilized fuel circulates throughout the entire fuel system, including the carburetor. This treated fuel will resist degradation and prevent the formation of harmful deposits during the long storage period.
Can I just add fresh gasoline to a snowblower that’s been sitting all summer with old gas?
While adding fresh gasoline might seem like a quick fix, it’s rarely sufficient to resolve the issues caused by old, degraded fuel. The old gasoline will likely remain in the tank and carburetor, still containing the gummy deposits that cause starting problems and poor performance. The fresh fuel will mix with the stale fuel, potentially leading to uneven combustion and continued operational issues.
In most cases, simply adding fresh fuel will not clear the clogged fuel lines or carburetor jets. You will likely still encounter starting difficulties and engine performance problems. It is highly recommended to follow a proper fuel preparation procedure, such as draining the old fuel and cleaning the carburetor if necessary, before adding fresh fuel and attempting to start the machine.
What are the long-term consequences of repeatedly leaving gas in a snowblower over summer?
Repeatedly leaving untreated gasoline in your snowblower over the summer will inevitably lead to recurring problems and accelerated wear on the engine. Each year you skip proper storage preparation, you increase the likelihood of encountering clogged fuel systems, which necessitate cleaning or repairs. These recurring issues can become more severe over time.
Over the long term, this neglect can result in significant mechanical damage. The constant exposure to degraded fuel can corrode internal engine parts, weaken seals, and compromise the integrity of the carburetor. Ultimately, this can lead to a shortened lifespan for your snowblower, requiring more frequent and costly repairs, and potentially necessitating an early replacement of the entire unit.